07 / SAVJETODRŽAVANJE
2026-06-27 · ODRŽAVANJE

How to Properly Tow a Car with a Rope and When You Must Not Do It

Hooking sequence, speed, distance, hazard lights, and why you can't tow an automatic the same way as a manual. A practical towing guide for drivers in BiH.

You've broken down on the road and someone has stopped to help. Before you hook up the rope and set off, you need to know the proper sequence that protects both your car and the people around you. Towing a broken-down car looks simple, but doing it wrong can cause additional damage to the transmission, brakes, or steering. Here's a quick overview of everything you need to know before both vehicles start moving.

Tow rope vs rigid tow bar and when to use which

A tow rope (tow strap) is what most drivers keep in the boot. It's used when the towed vehicle has working brakes and steering, since the driver in the towed car has to brake and actively follow the lead vehicle on their own. The rope must be 3 to 5 metres long and clearly marked with a ribbon or small flag so other road users can see that two vehicles are connected.

A rigid tow bar is a metal bar that bolts onto the tow hooks of both vehicles. It's used when the brakes on the towed car aren't reliable, because the rigid connection prevents the towed vehicle from rear-ending the one in front. A rigid bar also keeps the distance between vehicles constant, making it easier to handle than a rope, especially in city driving with frequent stops.

If you have neither a rope nor a rigid bar and you've broken down on the road, don't improvise with string or cord. String can snap on the first jolt, and the vehicle behind you could slam into you or swerve off the road. In that case, call a tow truck or roadside assistance.

How to hook up and get moving

  1. Secure both vehicles on flat ground and turn on the hazard lights on both cars.
  2. Locate the tow hooks on both vehicles. They're usually under the front and rear bumpers, sometimes covered by a plastic cap. On newer cars, the tow eye screws into a threaded socket, and the tool itself is in the boot next to the spare tyre. Don't confuse the tow eye with a trailer hitch - it's not the same attachment point.
  3. Attach the rope or rigid bar to the tow hooks. Never tie a rope to suspension parts, control arms, or the trailer hitch, as those points aren't designed for forward towing and can break.
  4. Start the engine of the towed car if possible. The brake booster and power steering depend on a running engine. Without it, the steering wheel will be extremely heavy and the brakes stiff, meaning you won't be able to react properly in an emergency.
  5. Put the towed car's transmission in neutral (N). Agree on a signal with the driver of the lead car - for example, a short honk before starting and before stopping.
  6. Pull away slowly, with no jerking. The rope must stay taut the whole time. The driver in the towed car keeps light pressure on the brake so the rope doesn't go slack and there's no jolting.

It's important that the driver of the lead vehicle adjusts their driving accordingly. That means gentler acceleration, earlier braking, and avoiding sudden lane changes. The driver in the towed car must keep their eyes on the lead vehicle and react in sync.

Cars with automatic transmissions and why the rules are different

Conventional automatics, DSG, CVT, and similar transmissions have a hydraulic pump that lubricates the internals only while the engine is running. If the engine is off but the wheels are turning, the transmission operates without lubrication and internal components get damaged. With a manual gearbox, this problem doesn't exist because the gears are lubricated by simple splash oiling from the sump.

If the engine is running and you can put the transmission in N, towing is allowed over a short distance (typically up to 20-30 km, depending on the manufacturer) and at low speed (up to 30-40 km/h). Always check the owner's manual for your specific model, as some manufacturers set even stricter limits. If the engine is off and the transmission won't go into N, towing on the road is not allowed. The only option is a flatbed tow truck or towing with the driven axle raised.

A lot of drivers don't know this rule. At the workshop we regularly see automatic and DSG transmissions with additional damage because someone towed them 20-30 km in D instead of N. Repairing a transmission after that kind of damage is many times more expensive than the tow truck call that could have been made right away.

Speed, distance, and mandatory signalling

Maximum towing speed is 40 km/h. In urban areas, drive even slower - 20-30 km/h is perfectly fine. Towing on the motorway is generally forbidden, except to the first exit if you've broken down on one.

The distance between vehicles on a tow rope must be 3 to 5 metres. A rope that's too short doesn't leave enough reaction time, while one that's too long causes the towed car to sway side to side, especially when changing direction. The rope must be visibly marked with a brightly coloured ribbon or flag, because other drivers need to notice in time that two vehicles are connected.

Mandatory signalling when towing:

  • Both vehicles must have their hazard lights on (all four indicators flashing simultaneously).
  • A warning triangle should be placed on the rear of the towed vehicle.
  • Only the driver may remain in the towed car. Passengers must get out and arrange alternative transport. This rule exists because passengers in a towed car face a significantly higher risk in the event of a collision or rope breakage.
  • If possible, the towed vehicle should have its sidelights and position lights on, especially in low-visibility conditions.

When towing is forbidden and you must call a tow truck

There are situations where towing simply isn't an option, no matter how much you think you can sort it out on the spot:

  • If neither the brakes nor the steering work, towing is completely forbidden. The driver in the towed car cannot control the vehicle, and you risk a collision with the lead car or running off the road.
  • If the car is in limp mode with the engine completely shut off and an automatic transmission that won't go into N.
  • If the vehicle is so damaged that the wheels don't spin freely - for example, a broken suspension, seized brakes, or a bent subframe.
  • At night without a single working rear light on the towed vehicle, since other drivers won't be able to see the towed car in time.
  • All-wheel drive vehicles (AWD/4WD) often have special restrictions. With permanent all-wheel drive, towing on two wheels can damage the centre differential. Check the manual or call a flatbed tow truck.

In all these cases, the only safe option is a flatbed tow truck. The cost of a tow depends on the distance and the size of the vehicle, but it's always cheaper than the additional damage caused by improper towing.

If your car has broken down and you're not sure what the problem is, it makes sense to have at least a basic diagnostic check done before towing so you know what you're dealing with. And if you're not sure whether your car can go on a rope or needs a flatbed, get in touch. It's better to ask upfront than to bring the car in with additional transmission damage that could have been avoided.

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