Is the car pulling to one side on a flat road, or have you noticed that new tyres are wearing unevenly after just a few thousand kilometres? Almost always, the culprit is wheel alignment. It's a cheap job that can save you a whole set of tyres and a calm drive, but only if it's done at the right time and on a sound suspension.
What actually gets adjusted on the machine (toe, camber, caster)
Wheel alignment isn't magic, three angles are adjusted on each wheel and on the steering axes.
The first is toe. This is the angle seen from above, whether the wheels point parallel, slightly inward or slightly outward. Wrong toe is the main reason for uneven tyre wear, because the tyre essentially "scrubs" along the asphalt instead of rolling cleanly.
The second is camber. This is the angle seen from the front, whether the top of the wheel is tilted toward the car or away from it. Bad camber wears either the inner or the outer edge of the tyre and affects stability in corners.
The third is caster. This angle is seen from the side and is responsible for the steering wheel returning to centre on its own after a corner. When caster is off, the steering feels sluggish, pulls, or doesn't sit straight when driving in a straight line.
On most cars only toe is adjustable in service, and sometimes camber, while caster is set at the factory. The machine measures all three angles regardless, and that has to be printed in the report.
Symptoms of bad alignment, what to watch for
There are a few clear signs that it's time for alignment:
- The steering wheel pulls to one side when you let go on a flat, dry road.
- The steering wheel isn't centred when you go straight, it sits tilted left or right.
- Tyres are wearing unevenly, only on the inner or only on the outer edge, or unevenly between the front left and front right.
- The car is unstable in corners, "floats" or feels late responding to steering input.
- Higher fuel consumption with no obvious reason, because wheels at the wrong angle create extra resistance.
If you notice any of these symptoms, don't wait. Bad alignment can chew through a set of new tyres in a few thousand kilometres, and a set of tyres costs many times more than an alignment.
When to do alignment
There are several situations where alignment is a must:
- Preventively once a year. European service plans often quote two years, but on Bosnian roads with potholes, patched asphalt and kerbs, once a year is more realistic.
- After a hard hit into a pothole, a kerb or a harder obstacle. One serious hit is often enough to knock toe out of spec.
- After replacing any suspension part, tie rods, ball joints, shock absorbers, bushings or control arms. Each of these parts directly affects the angles.
- After fitting a new set of tyres, so the new tyres don't start wearing unevenly from the first kilometre.
- When buying a used car, as part of the inspection, because you don't know what the car has been through before you.
What has to be in order before alignment
This is where most people lose money, alignment on a worn-out suspension is wasted time. Before the car even goes up on the rig, we check a few things by hand:
- Tyre pressure has to be even and to the manufacturer's spec. Different pressure left and right skews the readings.
- Tyre condition, if the tyres are already worn unevenly, the measurement will give a distorted picture.
- Wheel bearings must have no play.
- Tie rods and ball joints must have no play. If a tie rod is loose, alignment makes no sense because it will shift the moment the car comes off the rig.
- Shock absorbers have to be sound, because a weak shock changes the ride height under load and ruins the measurement.
If any of this isn't right, it has to be fixed first, and only then alignment. Otherwise you're paying twice.
How long it takes, what it costs and how often to repeat
The actual measurement and adjustment on a modern 3D laser machine typically takes 20 to 40 minutes, depending on how far off the angles are and how much adjustment is needed. If the adjustment sleeves on the tie rods are rusted and have to be freed up, the job takes longer.
The price depends on the condition of the car and the workshop, get in touch for an estimate if you need a rough figure. More important than the price is asking for a printed report with the before and after values once the job is done. A serious workshop hands you that sheet on its own, no questions asked. That way you know exactly what was done and you have a reference point for next time.
As for frequency, the rule is simple, once a year in our conditions, plus always after a serious hit or any suspension work.
The most common misconceptions about alignment
The most common misconception is that wheel balancing is the same thing as alignment. It isn't. Balancing means putting small weights on the rim so the wheel spins without vibration. Balancing solves steering wheel shake at higher speeds. Alignment solves the car pulling to one side and uneven tyre wear. They are two completely separate procedures and one doesn't replace the other.
The second misconception is that alignment will "throw the steering off" if the car is otherwise fine. No, if the suspension is healthy and the angles are within tolerance, the machine just confirms that and nothing gets adjusted. The measurement on its own changes nothing on the car.
The third misconception is that alignment is only needed when the steering obviously pulls. Many times the angles are out of tolerance and the driver doesn't feel it because they're unconsciously correcting with the steering wheel, while the tyres are quietly dying underneath.
If you're not sure about the state of your suspension or you suspect it's time for alignment, drop by the workshop, it's better to check now than to buy new tyres in a couple of months.