About this model
The Peugeot 407 was produced from 2004 to 2011, and in BiH it sold mostly as a family saloon or estate (SW) with the 2.0 HDi engine from the DW10 family. It was Peugeot's serious push into the mid-size segment, offering a comfortable ride, a nice interior for its time and richer equipment than its German rivals. On the BiH used-car market the 407 has been a favourite for years with drivers who want a big, comfortable car with a frugal diesel for little money. Most of the examples we see in the workshop come from France, Belgium and Italy, usually with between 250,000 and 400,000 km on the clock, which means practically every buyer is taking on a car with worn consumables. The platform is partly shared with the Citroen C5, so many spare parts cross over between the two, which makes sourcing easier here.
Engines and variants
In BiH this model is most commonly found with the following engines.
RHR (DW10BTED4) - 136 HP - the most common 2.0 HDi variant with 136 HP, Siemens common-rail injection and a FAP filter with Eolys additive. The usual complaints are around the FAP/additive system, Siemens injectors and the variable-geometry turbo. Produced from 2004 to 2010, it is the most numerous variant in BiH and is bought mainly by owners looking for a good balance of price and equipment, with parts realistically available even from smaller diesel-component dealers. Fuel economy is excellent when everything is in order, around 6 litres on the open road.
RHF (DW10CTED4) - 140-163 HP - a later evolution with slightly more power, more often found in SW estates from the final production years (2009-2011). The weak spots here are the dual-mass flywheel and the swirl flaps in the intake manifold, while the turbo and FAP remain just as vulnerable as on the earlier version. This engine appeals to drivers who want more power for an estate and family use, but it comes with a more complex intake that in practice causes trouble after 200,000 km.
RHK (DW10ATED) - 136 HP, no FAP - an early variant without the FAP filter, mostly seen on cars from the first years of production (2004-2006). No worries about Eolys additive or DPF blockage, but the same problems with the EGR valve, turbo and front suspension still apply. For drivers who don't want any hassle with a particulate filter this is technically the simplest variant, but they're becoming rarer on the market because they're the oldest.
Reliability and reputation on the BiH market
The Peugeot 407 holds up well on BiH roads if it's serviced regularly, but it is unforgiving to owners who neglect it. The biggest issue is that it's entering the phase of life where it's cheap to buy but expensive to keep, French parts are pricier than their German equivalents, and experienced mechanics who know PSA electronics well are not on every corner. Compared to its generational rivals like the Passat B6 and Mondeo Mk4, the 407 is more comfortable and prettier inside, but less reliable in the long run. Spare parts are mostly available locally, but for some specific items (BSI module, steering racks, FAP filters) you have to wait or hunt down verified used parts. The typical buyer today is a driver looking for a big comfortable car for less money, ready to invest in another round of consumables over the first two years. In the workshop we mostly see cars past 280,000 km whose owner patches up one fault per month - that's not a sign that the car is bad, but that it has been neglected by previous owners.
Common faults we see
From practice, here is what most often comes in for repair on this model.
1. FAP filter and Eolys additive
Symptom: A "additive level low" or "particulate filter blocked" message on the display, loss of power, limp mode, increased consumption, smoke from the exhaust after long urban runs.
Peugeot's FAP system uses a cerium-based Eolys additive that is injected into the tank with every refuel. The additive tank lasts around 120,000 km and then has to be topped up, otherwise regeneration won't burn off the soot and the FAP clogs up. Pressure sensors before and after the filter report the difference and trigger the warning light. The 407 is particularly sensitive because people drive it in town on short trips, where regeneration never finishes.
Advice: The additive must be topped up by the service schedule, not when the warning light comes on. If the FAP is already clogged, we first try a forced regeneration via diagnostics; if that fails, physical cleaning. Deleting the FAP via software is not a solution we recommend because of the BiH technical inspection.
2. Turbo (Garrett GT1749V) and the vane ring
Symptom: Loss of power above 2000 rpm, limp mode, bluish or black smoke, whistling from the front, error P0299 or boost pressure out of range.
The DW10 engines in the 407 use a variable-geometry turbo whose vanes get gummed up with soot over time, especially when the EGR is clogged and oil changes are skipped. It usually shows up between 180,000 and 250,000 km, depending on driving conditions. Often it isn't a failed turbo at all but just a stuck actuator, which can be freed up before resorting to a replacement.
Advice: Before ordering a new turbo, we check via diagnostics whether the actuator is moving and clean the vanes. If the turbo has been leaking oil into the intake, the intercooler and intake manifold must be cleaned too, otherwise a new turbo won't last long.
3. EGR valve and intake manifold
Symptom: Rough idle, occasional stumbling, engine light, P0401 or similar codes, reduced power at low revs, more smoke.
The EGR on the DW10 is constantly clogging up with soot, especially on the short urban runs typical for drivers in Banja Luka. On the earlier 2.0 HDi (RHR) the intake manifold can be removed and cleaned; on the later one with swirl flaps you have to watch the flap shaft, which often wears out and creates a metallic knocking sound that owners mistake for diesel knock.
Advice: We clean the EGR and intake manifold mechanically, not with chemical sprays in the tank - that doesn't work on engines this sooted up. When the flaps are seriously worn, we replace the whole manifold.
4. Siemens injectors
Symptom: Hard cold starts, rough idle, light "tractor-like" knock, P020X code for an individual cylinder, fuel return above the specified limit.
The 2.0 HDi RHR uses Siemens common-rail injectors that are more sensitive than the Bosch ones. BiH fuel isn't always top quality, and the 407 is driven by taxi drivers and company fleets, which means frequent fill-ups at questionable pumps. After 200,000 km the injectors typically run out of tolerance, which the engine tries to compensate for and consumption shoots up.
Advice: First we measure the fuel return per cylinder and the injection codes. If two or more injectors are out of spec, it's worth doing a full set because they tend to fail one after another anyway. A new fuel filter always goes in the same day.
5. Dual-mass flywheel and clutch
Symptom: Vibration and rattling at idle with the clutch pedal pressed, jerking when pulling away, knocking when shutting the engine off, uneven idle speed.
The dual-mass flywheel on the 2.0 HDi is a typical wear item that usually goes between 200,000 and 280,000 km, depending on driving style. Driving schools, taxi drivers and people used to slipping the clutch shorten its life. It often goes together with a worn clutch, so it makes sense to replace the whole set.
Advice: We never change just the dual-mass flywheel without the clutch, or the other way around - once the clutch is out, the mileage and used parts in that area are always suspect. Original Valeo or LuK kits last much longer than the cheapest Chinese alternatives.
6. Front suspension - arms, ball joints and links
Symptom: Rattling over bumps, imprecise steering, vibration in the wheel above 100 km/h, uneven tyre wear on the outer or inner edge.
The 407 has a fairly sophisticated multilink front suspension with a lot of wear-prone joints. On BiH roads that means frequent replacements - arms, track rod ends, anti-roll bar links, bearings. Especially on estates (SW) which carry more weight on the front axle. Many owners put up with the rattle thinking it's "normal for a 407".
Advice: When in doubt we do a full check on the ramp. We often replace several smaller parts at once to avoid pulling the same assembly apart again a few months later. Wheel alignment is mandatory after any suspension work.
7. Steering rack and power-steering hoses
Symptom: Power-steering fluid leak under the car, heavy steering on a cold engine, knocking from the rack over bumps, hot power-steering fluid or foaming in the reservoir.
The high-pressure power-steering hose and the hydraulic rack itself are known weak spots on the 407. The hoses crack at the bent sections near the engine where they're exposed to heat. The rack does fine up to around 200,000 km, after which it starts leaking at the seals. If you drive with low power-steering fluid, the pump dies quickly.
Advice: When the hoses go damp we replace them straight away - the risk is they burst while you're driving and you lose power steering on the motorway. As a rule we either rebuild the rack or fit a verified used one; new originals are too expensive for what the car is worth.
8. BSI module and electronics
Symptom: The car throws up errors on the display that come and go, the wipers do their own thing, a flat battery after a few days of standing, the alarm goes off for no reason, central locking issues.
The BSI (Built-in Systems Interface) is the central module that on the 407 likes to throw up unpredictable electrical gremlins, especially when the battery is weak or some consumer in the car is drawing current while parked. Owners often replace various parts (alarms, wipers, switches) before they realise the problem is in the BSI or in a parasitic drain.
Advice: Before going into part swapping, on diagnostics we take all the modules offline and look for where the current is leaking. Often a software reset of the BSI or sorting out a single fuse is enough. A genuine BSI failure is rare and is only confirmed once everything else has been ruled out.
Service and maintenance
The timing belt on the 2.0 HDi gets changed at 120,000 km or 6 years, whichever comes first - we recommend not waiting for the "longlife" 160,000 km interval the factory specifies for certain variants, because our conditions don't tolerate it. It always goes together with the water pump, tensioners and a full kit. Oil is 5W-30 to ACEA C2 or C3, interval 10,000-15,000 km, no more - the "longlife" 30,000 km figure in the service book is for Western European conditions, not our fuel and driving style. The Eolys additive for the FAP is topped up at roughly 120,000 km, which is the key item people skip and the filter pays the price. Fuel filter every 30,000 km, air filter and pollen filter at every major service.
Owner tips
- Top up the Eolys additive at the latest around 120,000 km - without it the FAP filter dies and costs you disproportionately more than a bottle of additive.
- Before buying a specific example: use the VIN to pull the full history via carVertical. From international registers it usually shows the real odometer figures by date, recorded accidents, the number of previous owners and indicators of theft or total loss. We consider it essential before buying any used car, and especially with French imports, which make up most of the 407s on offer. When paying for the report you can use code GAGA for a 20% discount.
- Use oil to ACEA C2 or C3 5W-30 specification and change it at 10,000-15,000 km, not the "longlife" 30,000 km interval from the factory book.
- If you mostly do short city trips, take it out on the motorway for 30-40 minutes at 2500-3000 rpm every now and then so the FAP regeneration can finish properly.
- At every service open the bonnet and check the power-steering hoses - damp or oily ones mean a burst is only a matter of time.
- Replace the timing belt around 120,000 km regardless of the "longlife" figure in the book, and always together with the water pump and tensioners.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Peugeot 407 2.0 HDi reliable up to 300,000 km?
Yes, if it's been serviced regularly and there's paperwork for the timing belt change, the dual-mass flywheel and the FAP additive. Without that paperwork you're rolling the dice - all those parts that wear out around 250-300,000 km can come due in the first six months. The engine is good as long as it isn't neglected.
What should I watch for most when buying a used 407 2.0 HDi?
Three things: the condition of the FAP filter (ask whether the additive has been topped up), leaks from the power-steering hoses and rack, and rattling from the front suspension when driving over bumps. Always ask for a pre-purchase diagnostic check - faults that can be hidden for a few minutes very often turn out to be expensive.
Is it worth deleting the FAP filter via software?
We understand why owners think about it, but we don't recommend it - the technical inspection in BiH can fail it, and a software "delete" means the engine will never again run properly with a refitted original filter. It's better to clean the FAP and keep up with proper additive top-ups; it costs about the same and doesn't mess up your paperwork.
Which is the most reliable 2.0 HDi variant in the 407?
The 136 HP RHR is the most honest choice - it has enough power for an estate-sized car but doesn't yet have the swirl flaps that can fail on the later RHF. If you can pick the year, 2007-2009 are past the early teething problems and don't yet have the complications of the newer systems.
How much does a dual-mass flywheel and clutch change cost on a 407 2.0 HDi?
We do a full set with original Valeo or LuK parts. The price depends on the specific condition - get in touch for a quote, we'll send the current price after inspecting the clutch and flywheel, so you can be sure you're not replacing something that's still good.
Is it worth fitting LPG to a Peugeot 407?
LPG doesn't get fitted to the 2.0 HDi - it's a diesel engine and LPG systems for diesels are expensive and unstable. If you're thinking about autogas, look at the 407 2.0 petrol (EW10A), but those are rare here. Most 2.0 HDi owners stick with diesel and that's the technically correct choice.
Is the 407 SW (estate) more reliable than the saloon?
Mechanically they are identical, but the SW carries more weight on the front axle and puts extra stress on the suspension and dual-mass flywheel. In practice that means slightly more frequent consumable changes, but nothing drastic. Estate bodies had better rustproofing than saloons, which matters after 15+ years.
If you notice any of these symptoms, drop by the workshop - it's better to check early than to pay a lot to fix it later.